I’m Lucas, Hardware Product Lead at Pixboom. Many of you have asked where to find a remote trigger button, or discussed the best way to rig a handle — we’ve been taking notes on all of it. Today I get to say it out loud: the official SPARK handle is now in development.
Before we lock down the details, we want to hear from you first. A few questions — just pick whichever ones hit home:
The fundamental one first
Third-party grips from SmallRig, Tilta and the like are already mature — what feature or reason would make you choose an official handle instead? And if your honest answer is “no need, third-party works fine,” say so — and tell us why.
On remote control
How far from the camera do you typically operate it? Right next to it (just ditching a cable), a few meters away, or tens of meters? Tell us about your typical setup.
Ever been on a set where wireless gear just wouldn’t behave — heavy interference, or RF-silent locations? How did you work around it?
On operation
Ever accidentally triggered recording, or missed a take you thought was rolling? How do you confirm recording status today — and have there been moments you couldn’t see it, or couldn’t check in time?
If the handle had user-assignable buttons: what would you map them to, and how many would you want?
On mounting & power
What would you mount on the handle’s cold shoe / locating points? A monitor, a light, a mic — or something else?
For those accessories, would you want the handle itself to supply power, or do you prefer running cables from your battery?
No need to answer everything — one question answered in depth is gold. Your input goes straight into our product definition reviews.
Finally, thank you for all the support you’ve given SPARK. Every piece of feedback and every on-set photo shared here is exactly what gives us the confidence to build this. Can’t wait to read your comments. ：）
1. 10-20m would be fantastic. Most of the time I’m standing next to the camera, but for some experiments camera might be positioned in a far difficult location. 2. No
3. Big Red something is very important. I think every filmaker did miss a shot at some point. For Spark I like the beep it makes when starting a recording. I would maybe like different beeps for start and stop. 4. I personally would not use the handle - but very interested in remote trigger options so I would not need to touch / shake the camera.
Agree with 10 to 20m. Some may need more, but this for my use cases is fine.
Currently I listen for the beep, but for studio shots I look for the rec button to be lit… If the remote could have a lit button when recording, it would be fantastic. Same for the button on the handle if it has a remote built in.
ISO or Aperture
Monitor
If it needs power, preferably to have it’s own power source with pass through fast charging.
For the handle, I personally avoid hotshoe mounting points to be honest. Arri with locating pins is a must (you could add bushings for 1/4"). I also prefer a nato rail clamp for a fast takedown or to swap to portrait quickly
Do keep weight in mind. Rubber moulded finger grip padding would also be awesome for comfort and grip. I love my smallrig handle with usb C remote port. The Kondor Blue Talon XL with remote (lanc) is also very nice. I love how they have a slot for an allen key as well. I’m currently using the Mutiny RS cable and trigger.
I work in the highend commercial & cinema world - so my thoughts on a tophandle would be:
Most of the time 10-20m is fine distance is fine, like in a studio or when the camera is mounted e.g. on a crane and can’t be accessed - on some occasions (e.g. a stunt, where safety is a concern) the camera may be further away, had some cases of several hundred meters. There should be solutions to access the main functions/menu & triggering via a Wifi Webinterface or App - meaning changing the most important settings (ROI, FPS, Shutter, Whitebalance, etc.) and a possibility so have a timeline with In/Out Markers to start a remote playback. Record triggering is mostly done via 3-Pin Fischer R/S (via third party adapters to the EXT-Port) in my case, when I cannot be at the camera. Either via wireless focus systems or a simple switch connected to the R/S port.
Yes. If I had to be 100% sure in sensitive cases I made sure to have a cabled connection so the camera. This might be done with a simple LAN cable (and USB-C Adapter on the camera) to get access to the Webinterface/App. With LAN long cable length should be ok.
The beep is a nice record indicator (needs to be turned of in the menu, if I don´t like a beep). Otherwise it would be great to have a On-Screen-Display on the video outputs - so you can switch between Clean Video Feed and OSD Video Feed. This is done by nearly all cameras (ARRI, Sony, Canon, etc.) - just have a look. The OSD should contain all main informations (ROI, FPS, Shutter, Whitebalance, Tint, LUT, Battery Voltage/DC Input Voltage, Remaining Space on the Card, maybe Iris/Focus if the lens supplies the information) and of course a Record indicator (Standby, PreRec, Rec) - so everybody on set can see the informations on their monitors. Maybe a Histogram/False Color/Waveform (of the full sensors dynamic range in RAW - not the LUT) would also be great on the OSD to get exposure right.
I could imagine a record button (needs to lockable if a don´t want to use it) might be suitable for some users.
I don´t need coldshoe - not secure enough for heavier things. But the handle should have 1/4 and 3/8 threads with ARRI Locating pins on the sides, top and 3/8 threads with locating pins at the front/rear. There´s an official pattern by ARRI with booth - would be great to have that. I could attach anything via the threads.
No need of power for the handle - since we normally connect many different accessories (Monitor, Videotransmitter, Wireless Focus Motors, etc,) to the camera which have different power draws and connectors I’ll power them from the battery or battery I/O Plate (2-Pin Lemo or 3-Pin Fischer)
The Handle should be easily detachable from the camera - via NatoRail or just one or maximum 2 Screws and I should be attachable in towards the back or the front of the camera. And I could imagine to have a Wooden finish on the lower part of the handle - good against sweat or in winter temperatures.
I know some points are more of the software side (Webinterface & OSD), but just wanted to point that out.
You guys are doing an amazing job, the camera looks and feels amazing, really good build quality thank you for your hand in that. I’m also really pleased with the images coming out of it, though it would be handy if the video feed was a more accurate reflection of what I’m seeing in the Pixboom Cine software which is almost always a pleasant surprise so far. :)
Being able to turn on and off OSD on the video feed, at very least something to indicate record state, would be way more important than a tally light on the handle, so I second what Highspeed_Munich has said in that regard. Assignable user buttons are always handy.
As far as remote trigger cable goes I would say it needs to be available in various cable lengths, perhaps a modular design where the cable connecting the trigger to a trigger box is interchangeable - maybe a BNC cable?
I’m assuming you ask about wifi interference relating to the wireless web interface and control of the camera.
Built in camera wifi is almost always not strong enough to have stable camera control from a mobile device, even from a few meters away, but there are ways to improve this such as connecting the camera in client mode to a wifi access point and having the mobile device connect to camera via the access point. The access point would generally have better range and can be placed on or near the camera. For cameras like the Sony Venice and Arri’s they have ethernet ports used to plug in the wifi access point for a more stable connection. Some devices like Bitbox use wireless bridging to extend the rage up to a few hundred meters or even kilometres. I use a cheap and tiny TP-link ap or bridge that gets mounted on the camera and that’s usually good for control from 5 to 10m away even with all the teradeks and dmx lights and wifi networks and cellphones etc etc.
Great to see you here. I echo many of the sentiments already shared—particularly by Highspeed_Munich—though my own use cases are somewhat eclectic. I work primarily as a wildlife photographer and cinematographer, and I also serve as a high-speed imaging consultant for Hadland Imaging Inc. While I have extensive experience with ultra-high-speed cameras operating in the 10,000 to 20,000,000 fps range for scientific and research applications, the Spark is my first “cinematic” high-speed camera. I’m very interested to see where it fits into my workflow.
Here is my initial feedback:
Top Handle
I am currently using a SmallRig top handle paired with a Mutiny record button positioned for index-finger trigger operation. This setup works exceptionally well for active field tracking, such as chasing insects.
Personal priority:Low. For my specific workflow, a dedicated Pixboom handle isn’t necessary, though I recognize other users may have different requirements.
Remote Control & Power Management
My work involves significant bird behavioral coverage, particularly around nests and cavities. For monitored setups where I am physically present, SDI monitoring and a tethered remote button are sufficient.
Autonomous Triggering / Camera Trapping Workflow:For unmonitored deployments, I ideally need an autonomous, low-power state.A dedicatedSleep / Silent modethat can be rapidly awakened by an external trigger.A two-stage trigger system:Trigger 1wakes the camera and initiates pre-record buffering;Trigger 2commits a predefined recording duration.Automatic return toSleep modepost-capture.Note: Wireless control is secondary for my application; robust wired/external trigger capability is the priority.
A dedicatedSleep / Silent modethat can be rapidly awakened by an external trigger.
A two-stage trigger system:Trigger 1wakes the camera and initiates pre-record buffering;Trigger 2commits a predefined recording duration.
Automatic return toSleep modepost-capture.
Note: Wireless control is secondary for my application; robust wired/external trigger capability is the priority.
UI & Monitoring
Does the SDI output currently pass the status/control overlay? (I am yet to try it) When using an external monitor via SDI, confirming record status visually is critical.
Feedback:The audio confirmation beep in the current firmware build is a great touch and very helpful in the field.
This is the RVLVR LABS Clutch Camera Remote Handle, which I used and absolutely loved on my beloved RED Komodo. It is an ARRI-rosette side handle that feels incredibly comfortable, ergonomic, and practical.
My ideal version of Pixboom Spark would feature: 2 fully customizable, clickable control wheels + 1 dedicated REC button
Wheel 1 mapped to FPS / White Balance Wheel 2 mapped to ISO / Shutter Angle
How I would use it
I normally keep my shutter angle fixed at 180°.
During a shoot, I could simply: Scroll the first wheel to select the FPS I want, since I often mix multiple frame rates throughout the day. Scroll the second wheel to adjust ISO and compensate for the exposure. Press REC and shoot.
To change wheel functions, I would just click the wheel: -Click Wheel 1 to switch between FPS ↔ White Balance -Click Wheel 2 to switch between ISO ↔ Shutter Angle
After clicking, rotating the wheel would immediately control the newly selected setting.
That would be my dream camera remote handle: simple, fast, tactile, and designed for real-world shooting.
My preference is for side handles rather than top on smaller cameras; the top handle gets in the way more often than not, especially when the monitor is on top.
I am very excited to see an official handle for the Spark, but I think in order for the Pixboom handle to earn its place over any old third party handle, the Pixboom Spark official handle needs to have a few assignable buttons and possibly a scroll wheel on it as well as the obvious run/stop trigger. These assignable buttons / wheel could then be used for iris control, marking good moments in future firmware etc.
As our current Smallrig x Pixboom cages cover the electric contacts to make this handle work without additional wires (I think this is extremely important, no more wires please!) Pixboom should supply, with the handle, a modified cage wall to fit into the existing Smallrig x Pixboom cage where this new handle can attach to the electric contacts and interfaces with the camera. Then we can just remove and replace that piece of the Smallrig x Pixboom cage with this new part, and the handle will be able to interface with the contacts and be screwed down. Similar to, for example, how the audio handle attaches to the top of a Sony FX3 / FX5 / FX6 - but keep everything metal please, not plastic (suffice for any hand grip surfaces)!
The tactile feel of any buttons on the handle as well as the handle itself is so important, as is attention to detail on the design of the run/stop trigger so that there can be zero instances where “It felt like I pressed it but the camera didn’t record”
Most importantly, the handle needs to be extremely durable and robust with the securest locking mechanism, as it needs to hold quite a bit of weight with a fully rigged Spark with cine lens. Please no plastic materials that may go sticky, corrode or perish over time.
I look forward to updates on the design. Perhaps offer it up for feedback again from the community prior to finalizing the design so any further corrective feedback can be addressed. Great work as always, guys! Excited to see it!
This is why I made my own mini rocker switch to record on the “other” camera. I know if it’s pressed downward, it is recording. Much better than a button. Something to consider.
Thanks for being first in, and for answering all four. The 10-20m figure goes straight into our definition doc, same for the big red something. Different beeps for start and stop live on the camera side rather than the handle, but it’s a cheap, sensible idea and the camera team has it now. Your last point might be the most useful one: you’d skip the grip and just take the trigger. That tells us something about what this product actually is for part of you, and it’s on the record.
This is a shopping list of a comment, thank you. A lit record state on the remote, ARRI pins with 1/4" bushings, quick takedown, weight, grip comfort: all logged, and a few of these were already circled on our whiteboard before this thread started, which is reassuring. The Mutiny cable and trigger setup you run today is pretty much the benchmark we have to beat. One thing I want to make sure I read right: by pass-through fast charging, do you mean keeping the handle usable while it charges, or feeding power through it to other gear?
Thank you for taking the time to write this up properly. Your habit of going wired for the takes that cannot fail matches how we think about reliability. The OSD request (clean/OSD switchable outputs with the full status set) sits with camera firmware rather than the handle, and since it’s clearly the most requested item in this thread, the camera team now has it together with your spec list. Lockable REC, the full ARRI mounting pattern and your distrust of cold shoes for anything heavy are all in the design inputs. The several-hundred-meter stunt case is real, but it will most likely be solved on a different link than the handle itself. One question back: when you say lockable, do you picture a physical slider that blocks the button, or would a firmware-side lock do?
Good to meet you too, and glad the images are treating you well. The note about the feed not quite matching what Pixboom Cine shows has been passed to the software folks. On record state: fair challenge. We see the on-feed overlay and a light on the handle as serving different people (whoever is watching a monitor versus whoever can see the camera), so for us it isn’t one or the other, and the OSD request is on the camera team’s list now. We haven’t locked in how the remote link will work yet, which is exactly why field reports like yours about interference and range are so useful. Keep them coming. On trigger cables: what lengths do you actually run on a typical job? That decides whether we offer fixed lengths or something modular like you suggest.
Thanks for bringing a use case nobody else here has. The camera-trap workflow you describe (sleep, wake on external trigger, pre-record, commit a fixed duration, back to sleep) is honestly bigger than the handle: those are camera firmware behaviors, and the whole sequence is with the camera team as you wrote it. Your ranking of wired over wireless for unattended rigs is written down on the handle side too. The SDI overlay question is the same OSD request several others raised in this thread, so it travels with that batch. Glad the beep is earning its keep in the field. Two questions, since you’re the expert on this: how long does a typical unattended deployment sit out, and what are you powering it from? That frames how aggressive a sleep mode would need to be.
That Clutch photo is a great reference, thanks for including it. Click the wheel to change what it controls, then turn: that interaction is the part we like most, and it’s saved in the input pile. Two full wheels is a harder trade (size, weight, and how thick the grip ends up), so I won’t promise anything there. Your priority order tells us a lot though. If you had to live with a single wheel, which pair would it carry: FPS plus ISO, or a different combination?
Short comment, big point. The top handle fighting with a top-mounted monitor comes up constantly, and side-position ergonomics are very much part of our thinking on smaller bodies. I’ll say this much: reading your comment, there’s a decent chance we’ve already sketched an answer to exactly this problem. More once we can show things.
I read this one out loud to the team. The direction you sketched, a handle that talks to the camera through the cage contacts with no extra cables, is remarkably close to conversations we’ve been having internally, and that’s all I can say for now. Your hard requirements are logged as exactly that: a REC press that can never leave you wondering whether it registered, materials that don’t corrode or go sticky, and a lock that holds a fully rigged camera’s worth of weight. And yes, the plan is to put the design in front of this community again before it’s frozen. One practical question: if a piece of the cage had to be swapped once at setup, would a screwdriver moment be acceptable then, provided the day-to-day on and off stays tool free?
A switch whose position is the record state. That’s a tidy answer to the problem half this thread keeps circling, which is never being unsure whether you’re rolling. It’s in the mechanism candidates now, next to lockable buttons and status lighting.
Thanks! Yes, a screwdriver moment to initially swap out that cage component that covers the contacts for one that allows you to secure a handle would be totally acceptable IMO.
Of equal importance is that if the part of the cage that sits on the top of the camera should need swapping out for a different one, that the new one maintains its NATO rail functionality for attaching top handles and monitors via NATO as this is such an important feature.
